Block Paving Driveways & Paths
Block paving is a classic, hard-wearing surface for driveways and paths. We prep the sub-base properly and lay to a true fall for lasting drainage.
What's included
- SUDS-compliant permeable options
- Herringbone, stretcher bond and basket weave patterns
- Kiln-dried jointing sand
- Full excavation and Type 1 sub-base
- Edge restraints haunched in concrete on every perimeter
- Contrasting borders, soldier courses and inlay detailing
Built from the bottom up
A block paved driveway is only as good as what's underneath it. We excavate to a minimum of 250mm on driveways, lay and whacker-compact MOT Type 1 in layers, then screed a sharp sand laying course to a consistent depth. Blocks are laid full, cut in at the edges with a disc cutter or block splitter, vibrated in with a plate compactor on a rubber sole, then jointed with kiln-dried sand and re-vibrated so every joint is packed tight.
Patterns, colours and borders
Herringbone at 45° or 90° is the strongest pattern for driveways because the interlock spreads vehicle loads across neighbouring blocks. Stretcher bond and basket weave suit paths and patios where loading is lighter. Most jobs look best with a contrasting soldier-course border and a double-block edge on curves — a small detail that makes a driveway look designed rather than just surfaced. Charcoal, brindle, buff and silver-grey are the most popular finishes locally.
Drainage and permeable paving
Since 2008, front gardens that drain onto the highway need planning permission unless the surface is permeable or water runs off onto a soakaway, border or lawn. We build to that rule: either permeable blocks with clean angular jointing grit over a no-fines sub-base, or a conventional build laid to a fall with an ACO channel drain and a soakaway. Either way, you get a compliant driveway and no puddles at the front door.
Looking after block paving
Block paving is one of the easiest surfaces to live with. Sweep it, jet-wash it every year or two on a low fan setting, and top up the kiln-dried sand afterwards. Any block that gets oil-stained or damaged can simply be lifted and swapped for a spare — we leave a small stock of your blocks on completion so a repair is invisible. Sealing is optional but does help resist staining and weeds.